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News and Features
Cadbury House Hotel by Annie Vickerstaff I visited this magnificent hotel near Congresbury with my husband to celebrate his birthday. Never one to pass up on an opportunity to write something for you, dear readers, I had a word with Matthew Gardner the restaurant manager, who was very happy to answer my questions. Head chef is Mark Veale, trained by Gordon Ramsay at the Boxwood Cafe, and it shows. I can honestly say that a couple of the dishes I enjoyed here were the best I’ve ever tasted – and I’m pretty fussy when it comes to top-end food. Aided by an excellent team in the kitchen (I spoke also to sous chef Andrew Chan) Mark delivers superb food, beautifully presented. A great deal of thought has gone into your dining experience, from the tasteful modern decor, comfortable upholstered chairs and subtle lighting to the plates, cruet sets, napery and staff, who are well trained, courteous and attentive. No piped music here: a pianist and a baby grand provide a pleasant background to the conversation, and I never heard Spanish Eyes once! This really is fine dining, but rest assured you can turn up in shorts and a T-shirt (as one chap did that evening) and not feel out of place. Everything is freshly made to order, from the warm, soft rolls (I had sundried tomato, hubby had parmesan) to the vegetarian ravioli, gorgeous puds and petit fours. Firstly we received an amuse-bouche of Jerusalem artichoke velouté with truffle oil, served in a tiny teacup. This was so perfectly balanced I thought I’d died and gone to heaven: as velvety as its name implied, with a wonderful depth of flavour and skilful scented truffle finish, it was exquisite. My starter of sweet, fresh lobster, sautéed truffle potatoes and crayfish reduction delicately flavoured with star anise, complemented by feathery fennel fronds in the green salad, was thoughtful and accomplished, as was hubby’s ceviche of organic salmon with a chilli, lime and coriander dressing and celery leaf: “fresh enough to need hitting with a stick” was his satisfied comment. For the main course I chose roasted loin of suckling pig stuffed with parsley and basil accompanied by cocotte potato and mustard sauce. Readers, this little piggy did not die in vain: I gave him an honourable send-off befitting his delicate flavour and moist, tender flesh. Husband had ravioli of artichoke and slow roasted tomato with rocket, parmesan and beurre noisette. I was surprised because he is a dedicated carnivore but he said he was feeling adventurous. Tasting his meal I was impressed by the intensity of flavour and the perfectly cooked ravioli; the accompanying salad was fresh and zesty. My choice of dessert brought my second taste revelation of the day: after that velouté I thought I’d experienced the pinnacle but my caramelised roasted pineapple with homemade cherry ice cream (from their own cherry trees) was simply beautiful: no fuss, no elaboration, just clean, rich, fruity flavours that sang on the palate. Hubby’s warm chocolate fondant with chocolate chip mint ice cream was exactly what you want from such a pud: rich velvety gooey chocolate oozing out of a soft sponge shell, complemented by the zing of mint and crunchy texture of the chocolate chips. Coffee was accompanied by expertly crafted tiny petits fours and a butter cookie, which I somehow found room for although by now I was threatening to emulate Monty Python’s Mr Creosote (“just one wafer-thin mint Monsieur?” Loud explosion). And where does all this lovely food come from? Matthew explained that locally sourced, top quality produce is at the heart of everything they do: meat from Gerald David (and they butcher the lamb carcasses themselves), herbs from their own garden, cherries from their orchard and local seasonal veg. So seriously do they take things here that the kitchen team recently went on a 3.30am trip to Brixham fish market (and were back in the kitchen by 11.30am), and the waiting staff taste every new dish added to the menu. The bar lounge has its own menu and a children’s menu too, complete with cow jokes on the back: what do you call a grumpy cow? Mooo-dy, of course. There was a large family celebration going on the evening I was there, complete with toddlers and a small baby who seemed mesmerised by the piano (not a Mozart fan, perhaps). None of this intrudes on the restaurant experience which is more grown-up but no less relaxed. Having now been to the restaurant four times over the past two years I can wholeheartedly recommend it for that special occasion when you really want a memorable evening: and it’s not as hugely expensive as you might think! And finally: congratulations to Mark Veale who has just become a dad. Cadbury House Hotel, Health Club & Spa Frost Hill Congresbury Bristol BS49 5AD 01934 834343
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